Log Labs

The Fashion Files

Every piece of cloth in your house was made out of thread by somebody who had to decide, thread by thread, what it was going to look like. Four things to do below. Three of them need a shirt you already own and a ruler. The fourth one needs the label inside it. Each one ends.

Our plaid, drawn from its 108 numbers. Not a photograph. Nobody has woven it yet.

New this weekSeptember 5, 2026

Where the fibre came from: three crayon maps, three real tariff numbers, and the surprise that the two places the same distance away are charged completely differently.

Our plaid is 108 numbers long.

This is the whole recipe. Count out this many threads of each colour, in this order, and then start the list again. Do it going up and down and again going side to side, and where they cross you get a plaid. Weavers call the list a sett, and ours packs about 54 threads into every inch, so one repeat is roughly two inches wide.

  1. 4rust
  2. 28pine
  3. 4cream
  4. 8pine
  5. 24charcoal
  6. 8pine
  7. 4cream
  8. 28pine
  9. = 108 threads, then start again
What we are stuck on

We drew a plaid nobody has woven.

The Greenbush Check exists as a recipe and as a picture. It does not exist as cloth. We wrote to four mills at the end of August asking what it would cost to weave and how few we could order, and we are still waiting on every one of them. Until a mill says yes, the shirt is a hundred and eight numbers and nothing else.

Can you help. Nothing yet, and that is the honest answer. Waiting on somebody else is most of this job.

Cloth words.

These are the real ones. A weaver uses every word on this list, so you may as well learn it the way they say it the first time.

Warp
The threads that run up and down, put on the loom first and pulled tight. They are the ones that have to be strong, because everything else is threaded through them.
Weft
The threads that run side to side, woven over and under the warp. Warp is the fence, weft is the thing weaving through the fence.
Sett
The recipe for a plaid, written as a list of colours and how many threads of each. Ours is 108 threads long and then it starts again.
Repeat
How far you go before the pattern does the same thing again. Find the repeat and you have understood the whole cloth.
Ends per inch (EPI)
How many threads are squeezed into one inch. More threads in the same inch means a finer, denser cloth, and usually a dearer one.
Nap
The fuzz. Flannel is brushed after it is woven to pull the fibres up, and the fuzz is the reason it feels warm before it is warm.
Colourway
The same pattern in different colours. Same sett, different yarn, and it looks like a different shirt.
Lab dip
A little card of yarn dyed to the exact colour you asked for, posted to you to check before anybody dyes a mile of it.
Sanforized
Shrunk on purpose at the mill so it will not shrink much on you. Ours is allowed three percent and no more.
Yarn-dyed
The thread was coloured before it was woven, so the pattern goes all the way through. Printed means the colour was stamped on top afterwards, and it wears off.
Duty
Money a country charges for letting a thing in over its border. Every kind of garment has its own number, and two countries can agree to make it nothing. Distance has nothing to do with it.
Micron
A thousandth of a millimetre, and how the fineness of a fibre is measured. Good alpaca is nineteen to twenty two microns. The finer the number, the softer it feels.
For the grown-up reading over a shoulder

The shirt this recipe is for.

The Greenbush Check is going onto one heavyweight flannel, woven and never printed, named for the town Dan grew up beside. It has not been made yet and there is no photograph of it, so the listing says so and takes an email instead of an order.

The Greenbush Check Flannel